Design studio Formafantasma announced, via its Instagram account, that it has been named creative director of Italian beauty house Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. The statement was shared with the studio's 186,000 followers, according to WWD.

Founded in 2009 by Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin, Formafantasma is based in Milan and Rotterdam. The studio previously collaborated with Jil Sander on the launch of its « Olfactory Series 1 » fragrance collection the year before, as well as with numerous luxury and design houses, including Prada, Fendi, Max Mara, Hermès, Bulgari, Loro Piana, Marni, Ferrari, Cassina, Flos, Ginori, B&B, Knoll and Manteco.

An 800-year-old house to reinterpret

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella was founded by Dominican friars who arrived in Florence in 1221, where they grew herbs to prepare medicines for their monastery's infirmary. The apothecary created a bergamot-based fragrance for Catherine de Médicis, queen of France, in 1533, still a best-seller today, before officially opening to the public in 1612. The brand now offers more than 600 products, from body care to fragrances, as well as serums, ointments, candles and liqueurs. In 2022, it launched « L'Iris », its first eau de parfum in 800 years of history, while also strengthening its skincare offering.

Italmobiliare first invested in the brand in 2020, a deal that marked its entry into the fragrance and cosmetics industry.

In the statement shared by the studio, Formafantasma states: « Le produit reste le point de départ principal, avec une attention particulière portée à sa qualité et aux savoir-faire et procédés qui permettent de le fabriquer. » The studio adds that it wants to « construire à partir de ce qui existe déjà », without seeking to redefine the house's image through a new visual identity, but instead drawing on what has kept it relevant since 1221. Formafantasma also describes the Officina as a place defined not solely by its longevity, but by « l'accumulation et la transmission du savoir à travers les générations », embedded in ingredients, formulations, techniques, objects and spaces.

A broader mandate, a change in general management

The studio will work on the brand's products, packaging, communication, retail spaces and events, in dialogue with in-house teams and specialists from various disciplines. « C'est précisément cette continuité qui rend la collaboration significative pour nous », Formafantasma concluded in its post.

This appointment comes after Ludivine Pont stepped down from her role as chief executive earlier this year. The company had told WWD at the time that « le conseil d'administration a redéfini la répartition des responsabilités [de Pont] entre ses membres ». According to local media, Roberto Pesenti is expected to take over leadership of the brand.